In the vibrant world of drag performance, Zeeshan Ali stands out with his extravagant collection of around 45 wigs, which he has amassed over a decade. Based in Mumbai, Ali believes that wigs are essential for transforming into various characters, enhancing his confidence and stage presence. In his early career, sourcing quality wigs in India proved challenging. "The accessibility of wigs was extremely difficult... I had to rely on whatever was available," he recalls. Thankfully, the landscape has changed, and wigs are gaining popularity among not just drag performers but also straight women seeking a stylish transformation.
India's reputation as the world’s largest human hair exporter, supplying 85% of the global market, has not gone unnoticed. Kolachi Venkatesh, a hair collector from Chennai, has been in the industry for 20 years, beginning as a picker in households where hair is often discarded. “It’s just thrown away but it's gold," he remarks on the discarded hair. Picked hair, known as non-Remy hair, can be sold to traders like Venkatesh for as little as $1 per kilogram.
The earnings for individual hair collectors tend to be minimal. “A diligent collector might gather 1–5 kilograms of hair in a day, earning anywhere from 59 cents to $6 per day," shares Venkatesh. Most of this hair is processed and exported to China, which boasts a vast wig-making industry valued between five to six billion dollars. Although India plays a crucial role, Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil notes that the country needs to enhance its domestic market through investments and advanced production techniques to remain competitive.
One business looking to alter this landscape is Diva Divine Hair, launched in 2009 by Nidhi Tiwari in Delhi. The company focuses on high-quality wigs and extensions amid changing perceptions about hair loss and the taboo of wearing wigs. Tiwari notes, “Technological advancements have made wigs more attractive and comfortable than ever.”
In contrast, Temple or Remy hair represents a premium segment of the market. Much of this hair is shaved from devotees in southern Hindu temples, resulting in a product that commands higher prices due to its quality. George Cherion of Raj Hair International explains, “Remy hair has aligned cuticles, resulting in less tangling and a silkier texture."
As the demand for Indian human hair continues to surge, Ali believes there is still room for improvement. He hopes to see more Indian-made wigs that are both affordable and eye-catching. “A wig that can create a wow factor,” is what he envisions as he and others push for a brighter future in India's burgeoning wig industry.
