On an exceptionally hot morning earlier this week, people gathered in large numbers at Imjingang Station, the subway's final stop before the border with North Korea. The focal point of the crowd was Ahn Hak-sop, a 95-year-old former prisoner of war from North Korea, determined to make what he termed his "final journey" back to the North to be laid to rest. Despite his wishes, the South Korean government had made it clear they could not facilitate his passage.
Weakened and suffering from pulmonary edema, Ahn was unable to walk the full distance from the station to the Unification Bridge, a critical link between the two Koreas. Nevertheless, he made the walk for the last 200 meters flanked by supporters, displaying a North Korean flag, a provocative symbol rarely seen in the South. Addressing the gathered supporters and media, Ahn shared his desires, stating, "I just want my body to rest in a truly independent land... A land free from imperialism."
Ahn's journey traces back to his youth. Captured by South Korean forces at the age of 23 during the Korean War, he spent over 42 years in prison before being released through a special pardon. He often identified as a "redhead," a term used for those with communist ties, and faced immense challenges finding his place in South Korean society. In his earlier years, he even declined an opportunity to return home in 2000, hoping for improved relations between the North and South, fearing returning would empower the United States, which he views as a colonial force over South Korea.
Born in 1930 during Japan's rule over Korea, Ahn's patriotism developed early as his grandfather prevented him from attending school to avoid "making him Japanese." He believes that the liberation from Japan only led to another form of colonial rule under the US. His views have remained consistent throughout, as he still believes the North Koreans were unfairly accused of provoking the Korean conflict.
Despite numerous opportunities to gain his freedom while imprisoned, Ahn steadfastly refused to endorse the South's ideologies. He endured physical and psychological torment to uphold his beliefs. His situation is evidenced in reports conducted by the Truth and Reconciliation Commission of South Korea, acknowledging the abuse faced by prisoners like Ahn.
Ahn's assertions regarding the North contrast sharply with external perceptions of its human rights record and economic challenges. He is dismissive of humanitarian concerns, arguing that media representations are biased and that North Korea, under its current leadership, is thriving. While the South has evolved from a military dictatorship to a thriving democracy, Ahn's views remain entrenched; he continues to protest against American influence, describing his existence under its military protection as a form of colonialism.
Ahn Hak-sop's journey serves not only as a personal narrative but highlights the complexities and deep divisions that persist on the Korean Peninsula, shedding light on the broader struggles of identity and belief shaped by decades of conflict.