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Zeeshan Ali, a prominent drag performer based in Mumbai, has spent a decade captivating audiences with his vibrant drag acts, highlighted by a staggering collection of 45 wigs. For Ali, each wig represents more than just hair; it serves as a powerful tool for transforming his identity on stage. "The right wig empowers me to command the stage," he states. However, the journey to finding the perfect look in the early days was fraught with challenges. "Wig accessibility in India was limited. I either imported them or crafted my own from materials like wool," he recalls.

The narrative surrounding wigs in India is changing, moving beyond the drag and film sectors to everyday usage among women seeking stylish transformations. In fact, India stands as the world’s largest supplier of human hair, accounting for 85% of the global market demand. Kolachi Venkatesh, a veteran hair collector from Chennai, shares insights from his 20-year journey in the industry, which began with collecting discarded hair. "What’s often thrown away is seen as gold in the industry," Venkatesh remarks.

Despite the booming global market, local pickers earn minimal amounts—between 59 cents and $6 per day—while intermediaries reap the benefits of their labor. Most of the collected hair is sent abroad, particularly to China, which controls a substantial portion of the wig manufacturing industry worth billions. Industry figures like Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil emphasize that India must enhance its hair processing facilities to compete effectively. "Automated systems and innovative production techniques are vital for India to claim its share of this profitable sector," he explains.

One company making strides in the Indian wig market is Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Nidhi Tiwari in 2009. Tiwari notes a changing perception of wigs as issues like hair loss become publicly addressed. Technological advancements, such as 3D-printed wigs and improved adhesives, have made wigs more comfortable and aesthetically appealing.

On the higher end of the market lies Temple or Remy hair, sourced predominantly from southern Hindu temples where devotees donate their hair. Craftsmanship is paramount in this segment, where companies like Raj Hair International excel at sorting hair based on meticulous criteria. "Our goal is to minimize waste while optimizing the quality," says CEO George Cherion, underscoring the elevated demand for this top-shelf hair.

Back in Mumbai, Zeeshan Ali expresses a forward-looking vision for the industry: "More Indian wigs should be accessible, and they should create a wow factor." With evolving norms and increasing demand, the Indian wig industry stands on the cusp of a significant transformation.