Italian luxury label Prada recently acknowledged the Indian origins of its new sandal line, responding to a significant backlash concerning cultural appropriation. The sandals, presented at Milan Fashion Week, featured an open-toe braided design remarkably similar to traditional Kolhapuri sandals, renowned for their craftsmanship in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.
Initially, the company labeled the footwear merely as "leather footwear," omitting any mention of its Indian heritage, which led to public outrage and accusations of cultural insensitivity. In light of the criticism, a Prada spokesperson clarified, “We recognize that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian footwear” and stated efforts to engage with local artisans.
This controversy arose after the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce expressed concerns that Prada commercialized a design without honoring the artisans who have been creating Kolhapuri sandals for centuries. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, acknowledged the issue but noted that the sandals were still in the early design phase, indicating a willingness to discuss collaboration with local craftsmen.
Kolhapuri sandals have deep historical roots, tracing back to the 12th Century, and were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, which authenticates their regional origin. The artisans who create these sandals voiced their sadness over Prada's uncredited use of their designs, with local craftsman Prabha Satpute asserting, “These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur.”
Responses to the controversy highlight concerns over economic disparity, as local artisans see minimal returns for their traditional work compared to the premium prices charged by global luxury brands. Industrialist Harsh Goenka criticized this disconnect, emphasizing that artisans suffer while brands profit from their cultural heritage.
Despite the backlash, some artisans from Kolhapur expressed a sense of pride that their work is being recognized on an international platform. Businessman Dileep More stated, "Artisans are happy that someone is recognizing their work," suggesting a complex mix of emotions surrounding the recognition of their craft in the global market.
