Cafes and Controls: Life Under Islamist Rule in Idlib, Syria

In the city of Idlib, Syria, life takes on a unique form, governed by the Islamist group Hayat Tahrir al-Sham. The group has maintained control over the area for years, imposing a variety of laws that residents have adapted to while simultaneously voicing their concerns. The Shababeek cafe, an establishment situated near the clock tower square, stands as a reflection of these dynamics. Inside, the family side is bustling, while the men's section remains nearly deserted, devoid of music and the familiar aroma of hookah smoke.“The absence of music and hookahs is a direct result of an agreement with the authorities,” shares Yahia Naeme, the cafe's owner. He notes that these regulations have impacted his business, as many patrons used to flock to his cafe for the social experience associated with hookah smoking. Though other cafes may have found ways to circumvent these restrictions through discreet offerings, Naeme prefers to comply, prioritizing a stable business environment in a region where defiance may lead to unwanted repercussions.The current climate sees a curious balance. On one hand, strict regulations shape cultural experiences; on the other, the administration strives to show competence in governance by addressing essential services. Residents express mixed feelings about their circumstances, acknowledging both the new constraints imposed by the ruling faction and the noticeable improvements, particularly in areas like water supply and public sanitation.Despite the challenges, the interactions in Idlib reflect resilience and adaptability, showcasing a community navigating a complex reality shaped by governance that blends both strict ideological controls with efforts to provide basic public amenities.