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Cooking for the Front Line: A Chef’s Journey in Ukraine

Ukrainian chef switches from culinary competition to feeding soldiers amid war.

By Maria Varenikova and Brendan HoffmanSource: nytimes.com1 min read

In brief

In the face of adversity, chefs in Ukraine are dedicating their skills to nourish troops with hearty meals.

In the frontline kitchens of the Kharkiv region, the passion for cooking has taken on a deeper meaning amid the chaos of war. Pvt. Yaroslav Breus, a former contestant on Ukraine's "MasterChef," now finds himself preparing meals for soldiers instead of television critics. Since the Russian invasion began in 2022, his culinary talents have shifted from fine dining to providing essential nourishment for troops battling on the front lines.The conditions are tough, with a recent Russian attack damaging the military kitchen where Breus and his team operate. The windows and door of their oven shattered, but they quickly fixed the door and continued their work. “Considering where we are now, this meal might be the last one,” Breus remarked, as he coordinated the preparation of pork steaks, borscht, and a medley of vegetables— dishes that reflect a hearty Ukrainian tradition.Soldiers of the First Assault Battalion of the Third Assault Brigade are grateful for the meals they receive, especially under the current circumstances. The unit has learned to adapt, often organizing their own kitchens where soldiers take turns cooking with basic ingredients. Breus, who previously worked at the upscale Kyiv restaurant Veranda, brings his expertise into the field as he crafts meals that provide comfort and sustenance to his comrades.Despite the threats of continued assault and the scarcity of resources, the soldiers manage to enjoy meals that remind them of home. Fresh beetroot salads are served alongside boiled potatoes dressed with butter and parsley, showcasing the rich flavors of Ukrainian cuisine amid a landscape of challenges.As the struggles continue, the commitment of chefs like Breus highlights the unyielding spirit of those on the front lines, turning the act of cooking into a vital form of support for soldiers fighting for their homeland.

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